barbecue wars

Okay, so here’s the deal. What kind of meat, what kind of sauce, what cooking method, what kind of wood or heat, and how it is served. Much to consider. And one thing’s for sure: We’re not talking about a backyard Weber grill here, folks. This is serious business, so let’s do it.

In the South, especially North Carolina, the most popular outdoor version is the “pig bite.” Named after the Cajun phrase. pigtraditional southern barbecue grew out of these gatherings, which involved roasting a whole pig for hours, then allowing guests to choose their own meat from the finished product (hence the phrase “make yourself a whole pig”).

But each region has its own version, usually pork, and the sauce is what makes the difference. In North Carolina, the three varieties of sauces include vinegar-based in the east, tomato vinegar, sometimes mustard, in the central state, and a thicker tomato-based sauce in western North Carolina. The city of Lexington, just northeast of Charlotte, bills itself as the “Barbecue Capital of the World,” with one barbecue restaurant for every 1,000 people (talk about going all out). And throughout the South, the meat is more likely to be served on a plate, accompanied by hot dogs, coleslaw and baked beans, not on a bun topped with ketchup (it’s considered a capital offense in some places). When ordered, it is simply called Q and the sides are given. (In Texas, you can get thick toast, but that’s another story.)

According to South Carolinians, only in their state will you find the four “official” sauces: mustard-based, vinegar-based, light or heavy tomato-based. To the west, Memphis barbecue favors tomato and vinegar-based sauces, and in some restaurants (or more likely barbecue shacks) the meat is rubbed with a dry seasoning mix before smoking over wood. Don’t even think about charcoal briquettes, considered a misdemeanor at the very least. There may not even be a sauce drizzled over the meat, but simply served on the side.

Moving on, in Alabama, Georgia, and Tennessee, barbecue is usually pork, drizzled with a sweet red sauce. Some rebels even go so far as to use a vinegar-based mayonnaise-based sauce, mostly on chicken (which isn’t considered true barbecue anyway). A popular item in North Carolina and Memphis is the pulled pork sandwich served on a bun with coleslaw. Pulled pork is prepared by shredding the pork after it has been grilled and then stacked.

In the Midwest, we are talking about the Kansas City style, characterized by the use of different types of meat, which can be pork or ribs, smoked sausage, beef brisket or ribs, smoked/grilled chicken, smoked turkey and, sometimes fish. Phew. They leave nothing to chance, but remember, KC is a major meatpacking city, no vegetarians allowed. Hickory wood provides the best flavor and the sauce of choice is tomato-based, hot or mild. No hush puppies, remember you are in the Midwest. And in Chicago, when they’re not devouring Italian steak sandwiches, hot dogs or pizza, they like to season the meat with a dry marinade, brown it on a hot grill, and then cook it slowly in a special oven. The meat, usually ribs, is finished with a sweet and spicy red sauce. Don’t worry, you won’t get arrested if you order it on a bun (no ketchup, got it?). Side dishes can be cooked with vegetables, macaroni and cheese, and sweet potatoes. Since many barbecue joints are located on the South Side, they are often the main item on the ticket at soul food restaurants.

The state of Kentucky just has to be different, which is why lamb is its meat of choice. In Maryland, beef is the ticket and is grilled over high heat, served rare with horseradish. It barely qualifies as barbecue, so why do we spend time on this?

Don’t mess with Texas, especially when it comes to barbecue. The bigger the better, and the Lone Star state takes no prisoners when it comes to its version (there’s no other version, partner). This tradition runs deep, and the giant barbecues, thanks in no small part to the number of famous politicians who have hosted them over the years, try to downplay their wannabes up north by claiming the best barbecue in the world. The emphasis is on the meat itself, not a sauce. Usually “Texas style” means “Central Texas style” and that means beef. The breast is cooked over low, slow, indirect heat. They prefer mesquite wood or a combination of hickory and oak, and are then served on plates with potato salad, beans, coleslaw, and a big slice of Texas toast. This is serious eating, everyone.

And there you have it. Exhausting, all these details and variations. who is hungry? What will you choose and where? So much roast, so little time.