those big pumpkins
Pumpkins have been present in North America since 7000 BC and probably had their beginnings in Mexico. A member of the gourd family, the name means “large melon” in Greek (pepon), which the French called pompom It is believed that early civilizations ate only the seeds, which were roasted before eating. The flesh of early gourds was bitter and more suitable for animal feed, but the gourds themselves became useful containers and bowls after cleaning.
Although it was introduced to Europe by the explorer Christopher Columbus, who brought seeds from the Americas in the late 15th century, Europeans were slow to adopt the pumpkin for human consumption, relegating it as fodder for animals and food for the lower classes, shunned by the elite. Some adventurous chefs created puddings and sweet desserts from the watery pulp, but pumpkin pies generally did not appear on the dining tables of French or British royalty. (After all, what did those upstarts across the pond in America know about fine cuisine?)
Native Americans were growing pumpkins long before the first settlers arrived at Plymouth Rock and introduced them to this versatile pumpkin. Easy to grow, it soon became a staple for early pilgrims and was used for soups, vegetables, and stews.
Colonial cooks soon created new dishes with pumpkin, and it was popular in stews, boiled and buttered, mixed into sweet puddings, and even made into beer. Pureed and sweetened, the first pumpkin pies appeared in the late 1600s, and even George Washington grew pumpkins and gourds on his plantation, but expressed disappointment at the bitter taste and the farm manager’s inability to dry them for storage. (Pumpkin jerky?) Surprisingly, enthusiastic President Thomas Jefferson, who grew acres of pumpkins in his famous gardens at Monticello, didn’t include them on the menus of his state dinners. Most of the harvest was used to feed his cattle and pigs.
They gradually gained popularity as a dessert when 19th-century housewives began mixing the pulp with custard and baking it into a pie shape. But it just never really caught on like the apple and was relegated to a seasonal holiday pie, as more and more fruits and vegetables became available, and that American apple pie reigned supreme all year long. Once Thanksgiving was declared a national holiday in 1863, the traditional dessert made its annual appearance but remained a regional favorite, primarily in the Midwest, where most pumpkins were grown, as well as in the Northeast. Southerners preferred their variation of sweet potato pie, and Westerners were late to the party. (At least as far as pumpkin goes.)
After World War II, when Americans took Halloween more seriously, the rise of pumpkin carving spawned a new renaissance for the orange pumpkin. The first Jack-o-lanterns were actually made from potatoes and turnips as part of an old Irish legend to ward off evil spirits. Irish immigrants found the New World pumpkin to be far superior for carving, and the tradition was born here in the U.S. Over the years, growing competitions and carving creativity have skyrocketed as we give it welcome fall with the traditional pumpkin. Visiting the local pumpkin patch remains a highlight for millions of children just before Halloween.
By the 1950s, farmers were able to grow hybrids that were better for carving and ones with firmer, flavorful meat to eat. Soon, the once-a-year pie filling began to return to dining tables year-round, expanding its repertoire to include rolls, breads, scones, and even cheesecake. Libby’s dominates the pumpkin market, so it’s readily available in canned form, both naturally filled and ready-to-bake. The state of Illinois, which grows and packs about 90 percent of the country’s squash, suffered from rain damage for several years, but slowly recovered in 2016 with a harvest of 318 million pounds, worth $12 million. still below previous years of 754 million pounds with 90 million. (Now that’s a lot of cake.)
These days we savor our pumpkins. A popular animated special featuring Charlie Brown of Peanuts fame appears every year before the holidays. An old nursery rhyme character used a pumpkin to house his wife (Peter the Pumpkin Eater). Even Cinderella’s fancy carriage turned into a pumpkin after the ball. And for those of you who are still back in the music of the ’60s, a rock group from Chicago is aptly named The Smashing Pumpkins, presumably after a popular activity late on Halloween night. (Which is not appreciated by residents who have to clean the next day).
To be sure, Americans secured their pumpkin love affair decades ago, with no end in sight. But even if you can find a pumpkin beer version, you may want to pass on.